There are a few different ways to get to Hue from Hoi An. We chose the coast-clinging train route between Da Nang train station (45 mins from Hoi An) and Hue. Hugging the Hai Van Pass on one side and winding across the rugged cliffs overlooking the East Sea, on the other. We were in the very last carriage and could see the front of the train snaking through the tunnels and crossing the high bridges. Amazing the railway was built at all the jungle so thick here and steep cliffs to very rocky shores and once in a while a golden stretch of beach pristine and untouched.
Huế used to be the national capital from 1802 to 1945. It also has great history of emporers and dynasties with all the juicy stories that go along with power money andwas the seat of the powerful Nguyen Dynasty emperors. Our Vietnamese history left a lot to be desired but we are learning 🙂 Learning about the kingdoms and incredible royal citiies of which hue is one. here we vast, 19th-century Đại Nội Citadel, surrounded by a moat and thick stone walls. It encompasses the Imperial City, with palaces and shrines; the Forbidden Purple City
Linear neighbourhoods flanked the moat we walked through several of them. Always full of kiddies playing together. Tiny houses like this one. A little kitchen which is the entire first floor. Several stone steps lead up to an equally teeny second floor space for sleeping. All immaculate but so tiny . Our first glimpse of one of the citadel gates was over these gorgeous baskets of chillis drying in the sun.
Caught spiderman defacing someones front door. Naughty boy 🙂
Inspired by Beijing’s Forbidden City, the Imperial City stands within the 2km by 2kms wallsin an area of some 520 hectares. It stands along the picturesque northwestern bank of the Perfume River. The Imperial City is protected by its own walls measuring 2km by 2km and the complex includes impeccably restored gate houses, temples, tombs, pavilions and moats. The last emperor of Vietnam relinquished his throne surrendered his ceremonial sword to the charismatic revolutionary and nationalist Ho Chi Minh.
In one of the buildings were all the shrines to the past emporers. One of them looked uncannily like Lance !! It was quite bizarre.
The Battle of Hue was one of the longest and bloodiest battles of the Vietnam War. Between 30th January and 3rd March 1968, the communist forces lost an estimated 2,400 to 8,000 soldiers, while Allied forces lost 668 and 3,707 wounded. The losses really affected the American public’s view of the war, and political support for the war began to wane. Most of the city of Hue was destroyed and evidence of the craters still evident in the corners of the old city still awaiting renovation and reconstruction. Quiet corner to reflect on the terrible suffering of all the soldiers made to fight in this brutal war.
Echos here – forgotten things – left to the sun and rain. And a dog long gone but not forgotten, immortalized in terracotta. 🙂
Lively fresh markets every morning – such gorgeous produce. Noisy energized and full of life.
We had some of the best food ever here in Hue – Nem Lui a Hue specialty – pork grilled around lemon grass skewers. added to various greens, herbs and crunchy beansprouts then all wrapped in dry rice paper and dipped in fish sauce. We had to try it it was delicious yum yum. we needed a lesson to learn how to eat.
So beautifully presented these were not fancy restaurants.
The royals or in this case the Nygen Dynasty were a real bunch. Around Hue are 3 large tombs in which the reamins of the emporers are laid to rest. We went to see 2 tombs first one was Khai Dihn. He was very much the puppet of the French. He was super unpopular amounst the people and his popularity took a real nose dive when he introduced a 30 percent tax on everyone so he could build this outrageous ostentatious mausoleum – gross really taking money off peasants to build this monstrosity. It took 11 years to build it.
The next tomb was even bigger.
Our taxi driver was a friendly chap – we chatted about where to go next (like in 2 days) go to Ninh Binh he said – hummm why not we did some checking looked great so Lance booked the 14 hour night train oh my gawd. Never heard of the place but we are game.
We waited for a long time this I knew was going to be an ordeal – Th etrain arrived finally. When we found our seats we were opposite two old men both of whom had got nice and comfy with their shoes off and gnarly feet all over my seat – I could feel myself starting to panic I cant do this for 14 hours. feet were everywhere then he rested his leg on mine – ahhhhhh. I know you shouldnt take pic of people without permission but I had to illustrate the horros on this train we were like sardines. look at these feet sob.
An hour in The guard strolled up to us with a little propsition if we gave hm $50 he could get us a cabin. nice little earner I think I would have paid double that!! suffice to say the night passed quite pleasntly they even brought us tea in the morning 🙂
1 thought on “Hue”
Your blog is a testament to your passion for your subject matter. Your enthusiasm is infectious, and it’s clear that you put your heart and soul into every post. Keep up the fantastic work!