Myanmar, what a spectacular country. It took our breath away on so many levels. Our month here felt like a lifetime, we did so much, traveled so far and spent time in the most rural communities we have ever experienced. We were genuinely welcomed with a freshness, long gone in more frequented places we have been to in S.E Asia. We had the most wonderful interactions with so many of our guides, home stays, bus drivers and hosts – we truly felt we were part of a cultural exchange. Beautiful Myanmar one of our most treasured trips to date.
Mandalay was our first stop in Myanmar – The immediate thing we noticed was the chalky yellow smudges on everyones’ cheeks. We learned it is called Thanaka a 2000 year old beauty cream still in use today. It is made from grinding the bark of a special tree (lady selling the logs in the market) onto a stone. The paste is then applied to the face in various patterns as desired by the user. Its age old use, is evidence of it’s effectiveness as a powerful sun protector and moisturizer. It keeps the skin young and healthy – and acne free. All those folks over the past 2 millennia can’t be wrong! Nivea has a hard time in this market 🙂
The second thing we noticed was the prevalence of rusty red mouths and teeth especially among the men – Ahh the highly addictive betel habit. Small parcels of tobacco, areca nuts, slaked lime and optional spices, are wrapped in the vivid green leaves of the betel plant and then stuffed into the cheek and chewed. Users sing its praises as a pick-me-up that increases alertness, boosts energy and dulls pain. It sure produced a lot of spitting tho’ took some getting used to for me. (actually who am I kidding I never get used to all the spitting haha) This guy was tickled that we were so interested in watching him. He was happy to show us the prep method which was quite the ritual and after… he generously offered us some! Maybe in our younger days not anymore hehe.
On day two we decided to take our first (and not the last) trip on the Irrawady river The name “Irrawaddy” is an English corruption of Ayerawaddy Myit, which some scholars translate as “river that brings blessings to the people.” It is the life blood of Myanmar. We saw people washing their clothes, washing themselves, washing the kids, children swimming, water buffalo wading, and people fishing. The water is also used for drinking and cooking and finally of course the river is a major thoughfare allowing townsfolk to travel and for goods to move up and down the country. It is everything to everyone.
It was pretty grim down by the dock. Mountains of garbage, shanty villages and tough little gangs of raggedy children begging as we waited for our boat. Sad fact of life here:- poverty is brutal.
We were taking an hour trip to the other side of the river to Inwa which was the capital of Burma for nearly 360 years, on five separate occasions, from 1365 to 1842.
The boat ride was very lovely I kept alert looking for the famous and super rare pink Irrawaddy Dolphin they are seen more often in this part of the river and at this time of year – but they weren’t on show for us that day.
The dock on the other side was much cleaner and greener. We were greeted by pushy? no I would say enthusiastic 🙂 sales folks. So easy to smile and firmly say no thank you they move on quickly. Trouble is here I really do want all the souvenirs they are so often hand made and pretty!
Hsinbyume Pagoda, a gleaming, white, undulating temple almost too bright to look at the top of the day. The many different levels look like waves. It was stunning. We walked up and around the terraces which represent the seven mountain ranges surrounding Mount Meru. Mount Meru is considered the center of the universe in the Buddhist cosmology. It has a sad story though. It was built in 1816 by the Bagydaw prince, the heir of King Bodawpaya as a way to show his love for his first wife, Queen Hsinbyume – who unfortunately lost her life during childbirth.
Great views fromt the top.
We have seen saffron robed monks in Thailand and Loas. Burgundy is the colour here for men. We were so surprised to see the brightly coloured habits of the Burmese nuns. The colour was so joyful and pure. We visited this nunnery just as the morning meal was being served.
The level of artistry is insane here. Machines are hard to find and everything seems to be done by hand. Intricate wood carving, glossy lacquer work, stitching and beading, weaving and basketry cloth on looms, and gold leaf beating. Whhaaat by hand? yes! we watched these men hammering the gold it was musical like drumming. They work 8 hours a day hammering lumps of gold in wafer-thin sheets.
As our tuk tuk whizzed through the alley ways of the silk making district. We saw all the skeins of naturally dyed silk drying in the yards. Each area of the city was famous for a particular artistry. We rolled into the silver district, stopppp I’m getting out !
The silver shop drew me in. I’ve always been a silver magpie.There is nothing like the gleam of pure silver, mirror polished. Childhood memories of cleaning family pieces with my mum. So satisfying rubbing away the tarnish allowing the beauty beneath to shine. The silver shop was full of stunning hand made pieces. I hummed and haa-ed Lance sat down knowing we would be there for a while. My eye was caught by a blackened tarnished betel box I knew that it was going to be mine! – Love at first sight. She’s an old gal, about 1860 solid Shan (tribal) silver hand beaten. The repousse quality is stunning. And look how she polished up, the softer glow of pure, hand beaten silver. You can see the tiny hammer marks gorgeous. Now to wonder who would have owned such a fine thing? someone important for sure, the shop owner said a Shan princess – on the bottom her name. It is lovely to imagine who she was.
Oh the temples – glittering gold, overwhelmingly busy with worshippers coming and going with offerings of flowers and all that beaten gold we saw being made in the shop. But the Mahamuni Temple is very special. Ancient tradition refers to only five likenesses of the Buddha, made during his lifetime; two were in India, two in paradise, and the fifth is the Mahamuni Buddha image in Myanmar. After Great Image, was cast (about 2500 years ago) the Buddha breathed upon it, and thereafter the image became alive. Men and boys (women not allowed) come to stick gold leaf to the body of the statue so much gold has been added that the buddha body appears uneven. Thats a lot of gold.
Here I am at the temple with my man Jimmy being taught how to grind thanaka and earn Buddhist merit – I worked hard (for about 10 mins )and all the paste I made was given to the temple… and now I have good karma. 🙂
Back in on the boat to Inwa, there were several way to get around this area. Horse and cart, rusty old bus, bicycle or moped or shanks pony but lance was still nursing his swollen foot so we plumped for horse and cart .
As we went I did hope that poor old To-too was kindly taken care of 🙁 Jury out on that one. We clip-clopped our way around the sights.
Yadana Hsemee pagoda. I don’t know why buy this style of temple gets me in the throat. Khemer in style floods my mind with Ankor and My Son (in Vietnam) the last or first rays of the sun setting fire to the red brick. The echos of past reverence soaked into the walls and the trees. Big sigh heart bursts… look at that tree. Brought tears to my eyes. We could have stayed here all day. Beautiful.
We could have easily missed the slim muddy track that wound its way behind the main temple . Seemed rather buggy and snakes are always in the back of our minds in these grassy areas – but curiosity got the better of us. We spied the Buddha through the column so magical, all overgrown and unkempt but glorious – what a superb place.
It is the natural quiet the unassuming, the being, the resting the timelessness, that resonates for us.
On the way out a little lapis dish and two sapphire pebbles called to me from an old woman’s stall … Ok I’ll take you home… new treasures 🙂
And then this stunning place in bathed in the gold of the end of the day. Sensory overload, our cups are full. We can’t absorb any more. The Maha Aung Mye Bom San Monastry one of the finest examples of Burmese architecture with a prayer hall of seven tiered structures.
You can lose your self in these places of worship such strong feelings of focus and prayer, humans at their best. Wandering the maze of the central tiers we let our feet take us to where ever. Eventually we found ourselves in the central chamber a small space high to the sky and casting flickering shadows of our bodies. This is me, it felt strange to be a ghost.
The U-bein Bridge is a popular sunset spot so off we went. However we found ourselves in the midst of the full moon festival Locals were out in droves enjoying four days holiday. A lovely spot but so crowded, we couldn’t walk the bridge for long. Lovely to see so many families enjoying the cool evening and having such a fun family time.
Almost templed out and we’ve only just started!! On our last day had to go to see the worlds largest book, Kuthodaw Pagoda. In the grounds of the pagoda are 729 kyauksa gu or stone-inscription caves, each containing a marble slab inscribed on both sides with a page of text from the Tripitaka, the entire Pali Canon of Theravada Buddhism. I love how the temples here, are places people hang out, they bring food kids play games, adults chat they sit in the shade and snooze. A lot of snoozing done by the temple dogs!! they sleep anywhere.
We already feel lost in the embrace of Myanmar. Gorgeous. And tomorrow long but exciting 10 hour boat trip down the Irrawaddy taking us to the mystical, magical, plains of old Bagan.
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