Julia & Lance

Veliko Turnovo

Hilly, green, restful place. Stormy skies and medieval forts. Slow pace strolls, cobbled streets and too much ice cream. We had a nice rest here after non-stop travel for eight weeks ahhhhhhh and did I mention ice creeaam

We took a bus from Sofia (the newish capital of Bulgaria) to Veliko Turnovo (the old capital of Bulgaria). It took just over 3.5 hours travelling through dramatic mountains and bucolic pastures. A pretty ride.

This is the old part of the city. It is built on three hills, Tsarevets, Trapezitsa, and Sveta Gora, which rise above the meanders of the seriously muddy Yantra river. There have been people here since the 3rd millenium B.C., remains have been found on the now overgrown Trapezitsa hill. Thracian tribes lived on Tsarevets hill in the Bronze and Iron ages. The Romans of course were here too – can we go anywhere with out those guys showing up? Later the Ottomans for 500 years and then finally the Communists.

Our lovely posh bus (with air con yaay). Our lovely guest house on top of a hilly hill and Gerry the ancient sausage dog who guarded us fiercely from the stray cats – we love you Gerry xx

More hills – yes everywhere was on a hill even down hill was uphill 🙁 We were told directions here, are not turn right or left but… go up or go down. We got a good work out. By the way we have been averaging 12 to 15 kms a day since we left Canada – and we really are noticing a big change in our fitness, sleep quality and general energy. We drink more water, eat less food and move more – getting healthier and feeling sooo good. Anyway back to the hills… they did make us huff and puff a bit ! and still sooo hot and humid. Ice cream really is the only way to cool off in these circumstances. Its a medical fact 🙂

Red tiled roofs stacked impossibly on top of each other, quite a building feat. and the rather sinister art gallery /coffee shop that used to be the Militsa Communist headquarters and known place of torture for resistance fighters. Of which there were many in this town.

High up on Tsarevets hill is the medieval stronghold of the same name. It served as the primary fortress and strongest bulwark from 1185 to 1393, housing the royal and the patriarchal palaces.

At the top of the hill behind the fortress walls is The Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension of God (say that with a mouthful of ice cream). It looks very traditional on the outside but the inside is another story. We’ve been in a lots of churches on this trip but this one was the strangest. The Byzantine interior decor didn’t survive the 800 years, and in the 20th century it was decided to renovate. Artist Teofan Sokerov repainted it, depicting images of Bulgarian history in a modernist – or (I would Dante’s inferno style ) Because of these murals, the church has never been re-consecrated and is no longer in use today. Most people either love it or hate it. We loved it. .

After the dramas of the church we enjoyed walking around the cobbled streets. Here you can visit many artisans selling their work and watch them making their beautiful crafts.

A day trip to Plovdiv

It was a long day trip 3 hours there 3 hours back – A bit crazy BUT hey maybe we are. Our original plan was to go from Istanbul to Plovdiv then Sofia and finally Veliko Turnovo. However as we were on the night train it would have meant arriving in Plovdiv at some horrific hour so we skipped it in favour of Sofia and we all know how that panned out – sighhh. Anyway we just had to come for a quick visit.

There is evidence of habitation in Plovdiv dating back to the 6th millennium BCE, when the first Neolithic settlements were established; it is said to be one of the oldest cities in Europe. In 2014, Plovdiv was selected as the the European Capital of Culture 2019. Yeah Plovdiv whoot whoot. Shame your name is so ugly but you are very pretty. We could have stayed here longer than a day !