Some places fill you with such wonder and amazement you feel as if in a dream. We felt like we had stepped into a different world, a magical, prehistoric one. Verdant, jungles clinging to rocky cliffs and huge storks circling above the towering karsts added to the sense that somehow we had travelled back several milliennia to the land that time forgot.
We loved being here, cycling through towering scenery at the golden bookends of the day, with only water buffalo to watch for on the roads. We shared the sights with a handful of tourists. The national park was virtually empty. The cave temples we discovered on our bike rides around the lanes, beautifully silent. Rough hewn steps enticing a climb and rewarding with a view. The discovery was so exciting. Every where we looked was another astounding scene to process. It was beauty overload.
We rented bikes from our homestay and peddled the 10kms to the Thung Nham Bird Reserve. Easy to ride here only a couple of hills, the rest flat as a pancake and no traffic. We spent the day wandering the trails through breathtaking scenery. We crossed bamboo bridges and ate pomellos and papaya off the tree. Watched the storks and herons and saw a couple of kingfishers too. But much less wildlife than we thought – where are the monkeys?
Mermaids Cave punches its way through the limestone for a kilometer or so. It is not a deep cave but a long one. The only way to go is stooping and then on all fours. (horror emoji inserted here) We saw a couple of lads with their knee pads going in – why ?
After the caves we continued on and found this stunning view point at the top of a few hundred steps! Awesome views we sat up here for a while. Completely alone. Magic.
What a spectacular day we were so tired. There was such a sense of peace as we cycled home. So quiet, the landscape bathed in gold. We were so ready for sleep and the cool of night. So very hot and humid in the day.
Our little homestay bungalow sat under a big rock. A large and happy family ran it. They seemed to own everything around. We had to use a lot of body language to communicate our Vietnamese non existant their English pretty much the same. We hugged tho – loved that no language barrier there 🙂 The lovely thing about this place aside from the people was the beautiful location. Roll out of bed and there you were in paradise. ta daaa
We spent a couple of days just cycling around the narrow roads – we came across so many hidden temples and caves. who ever was riding up front would yell, ‘stop’ in this case Lance and we would proceed to explore.
I never thought we would say we rented motor bikes in Vietnam – but today we did 🙂 – super fun speeding through the quiet country roads (darn it never took a photo!) We were able to get to some the places too far to reach by bicycle. Mua Caves was the first of these places, rather a highlight of the area. Famous for it’s views of the karsts, river and rice paddies. It is quite the climb because you must times it by two. You go up, up, up one side then come down. And then go up, up, up the other side. Maaad.
So now after catching our breath we started the climb down this side to climb up those steps in the pic – Shaky legs by the end of it and so hot and sweaty ! but worth it for the amazing views. 🙂
We weren’t quite sure why the whole place was called Mua caves. Did we miss something? This small tiger cave lies at the base of the climb. Must be of special significance – but no info for us.
Bich Dong is a beautiful cluster of cave temples and home to a group of Budhist? nuns. As with so many of these temples in this area there is little information as to age, builder, religion – and no one speaks english much around here. Religious sites, in our experience tend to be ancient places of worship with different peoples’ beliefs and practice coming and going with the ages. This beautiful place felt soaked in goodness to us. A very special energy.
Climbing up yet more stairs to the bat cave temple. And behind the temple the dark stairs leading to the cave.
Hungry after another full day of clambering up steep steps in mad humidity. We thought we should try a local specialty. Goat is one of the more palatable meats we could eat here. I won’t go in to the other choices available, not acceptable in our culture. We found the dish very delicious and enjoyed it very much.
Cuc Phong National Park and Van Long Wetland Reserve were on our radar. We love a good hiking day in the jungle, and Van Long is the last place on earth where you can see Delacour’s Langur in the wild. These monkeys are critically endangered now only 200 animals left. Unfortunately they made the list of 25 most endangered primates on the planet N# 7 🙁 We didn’t hold out much of seeing them but we were determined to try.
The 60km drive on major busy roads meant no motor bikes for us. We hired a driver for the day to take us around. It worked out beautifully. We left at 7am for the foothills of the northern Annamite Range and the national park. First order of business the big climb up to the cave once inhabited by prehistoric man. oh lord more steps !! we have iron legs these days hehe.
Not any old man cave this is a prehistoric man cave – No tv or beer fridge tho. he he I was quite excited as I found a clam shell we read this is what was eaten by the people who lived here – I wonder if my clam shell is prehistoric? I like to think it is.
We turned a corner and ran in to this snake trying to swallow a large frog fascinating. The 2.5 feet long snake i think had bitten off more than he could chew it was a gruesome thing to watch but totally mesmerizing. We looked him up when we got home we are pretty sure he was a painted bronze back.
The signage in the park was crap we were supposed to be on a loop. Seeing as we only met 3 other people and had no cell service, we were nervous when we came to a fork in the road. Literally left or right – no sign, no people, no gps. Luckily we picked the right way the one that looked slightly more well used ???? Jeeze we could still be out there!! This dilemma happened a second time at the end of the trek. Finally we saw the way out sign hidden under a tonne of foliage. After some intense rough and steep trails – where I kinda swore a bit !! (actually a lot) massive humidity, 100 floors and 12 kms later. We stumbled into the parking lot very disheveled like two long lost explorers – haha laugh now not so funny then.
Thanks to our ridiculously long and arduous hike in the National Park we arrived at Van Long with only 2 hours before closing. However they are the best two hours of the day. We hopped in to an bamboo boat and were rowed out into the wetland – Massive limestone karsts hurt our necks to look at. The water was teeming with fish and dragon flies were everywhere. They always make me think of my dad (heart) he was here with us I know I always feel him in these beautiful natural places.
Unmistakable crash in the canopy to the left – yes we’ve seen enough to know when monkeys are around – could we be so lucky?
We watched the parent Delacour’s Langur and 2 young leaping from branch to branch and clambering across the sheer rock face. Then we saw more about 6 altogether. Deep inhale realising we were witnessing the last of this species. So sad and yet here they were living their best lives. Chattering together unaware of their future not caring really – living in that moment. We should all do that more. I will see them for ever in my mind in that beautiful light with dragon flies all around. Rejoice in the moment. It’s hard but we did.
Such a beautiful planet.
6 thoughts on “Ninh Binh – Tam Coc”
Thank you for sharing this insightful article! I found the information really useful and thought-provoking. Your writing style is engaging, and it made the topic much easier to understand. Looking forward to reading more of your posts!
Preparing Vietnam = first reading our Canadian friends’ blog, than Lonely Planet. We’re so looking forward to it. We love your writings! Miss you! Hugs from Nele, Pieter, Marte & Remi x
Reading through all and getting excited to plan my trip 🙂
So exciting for you let me know if we can help in any way 🙂
Amazing photos, amazing scenery……
Thanks so much Vietnam such an amazing place – we will be back 🙂