A six hour bus ride took us from the sweltering plains of Bagan to the cool misty mountains of the Shan State and the trekking town of Kalaw – We had come here to do the 3 day, 70 km hike from Kalaw to Inle lake – however there was no WE in the equation. Lance was unable to walk that far – his foot still swollen from the motorbike accident in Thailand. We suspect now small break or fracture as it wasn’t healing very fast. So the big question was… was I doing it? I didn’t really want to go without Lance. He assured me he would be fine and I must go – so the next part was to find a guide.
The universe intervened and by a beautiful miracle we met a lovely couple on our 6 hour bus ride. We immediately hit it off and before long we had shared the story of Lance’s foot – and before you knew it they were insisting I join them the next day on their trek with their private guide. It seemed so natural to go with them. So I did.
This has been our travelling experience. We always seem to find the BEST people. Nico and Beth, the most beautiful couple I loved/love them so. We had so much fun together, hearts in my eyes. I will be for ever grateful for their invitation as these three days were such fun and so magical.
The fourth person in our newly formed tribe was the most important. Introducing… Mama the warmest most wonderful guide. Hailing from Nepal he was the real deal, a real sherpa. He took care of us and guided us through breathtaking scenery, where a lot of the time there was no real path or trail. He showed us all sorts of interesting plants and insects and talked to us about the country and the people. He was a wealth of information… but boy he walked fast!! .
Off we went the first steps of our 3 day 70 km hike through the mountains to Inle lake. Before long the relatively flat trail started getting steeper. Full of energy and excitement we didn’t realize how steep we had climbed until we took in these views. We were so high up. A fabulous place for our first lunch, Nepalese curry and naan.
A few hours later we arrived at this small village just as the children had started recess. They were so excited to see us shouting hello and waving rushing over grabbing our hands! They wanted to play patty cake they lined up and we played!! So curious to see us and to say hello.
Mama found a harmless and beautiful spider.
We stopped for a rest at this single dwelling high in the mountains. This young girl helped us to some water and we enjoyed playing peekaboo with her babe. She later went to dig potatoes with her babe on her back – as we passed her hut we saw her husband and father playing cards. Women do all the work here. We see them in the field planting and harvesting all the vegetables, birthing and caring for the kids, cooking cleaning for their families tending to all the animals. The men on the other hand do a lot of sitting around sleeping and drinking. Mama said most men want to marry a woman from the countryside for they know they will never have do do much work as she will do everything and never question it. Sucks to be a rural lass in this country.
A few hours later we descended into a small town, and were lucky enough to watch one of the few trains pulling in to the station. It was very colourful and busy, with vendors selling their wares through the open windows to the passengers inside.
A field full of women cutting rice with sythes. There is no machinery here, all the farm work is done by hand or with oxen.
Finally the long shadows of the day .With aching muscles, we came to our first homestay spot. Exhausted, 25 kms walked and quite steep in places. Combined with super hot weather and a fast pace, I for one wouldn’t have been able to walk much further.
The large family welcomed us and had prepared some lovely food which we were very thankful for. We were shown to a large rain barrel for a wash, before joining the family on the second floor, where all the beds were. We all slept together on thin mattresses and blankets on the floor. It was cold at night, luckily the blankets were very warm and cosy. The babies cried most of the night at one point grandmother got up took water from the family alter and sprinkled it around. Blessing the space I think. The baby finally quiet for the rest of the night.
Morning came too soon. I was awaked by this little girl getting ready for school. She shyly waved at me. I helped her put on her cardigan.
Her big brother ground the thanaka for them both and I watched them perform the daily ritual of painting their faces.
This is grandma who tended to the babes during the night. She has 29 grandchildren all of whom live in the village – she is always seen with a baby on her back this one was the little one that cried all night!! She told us through Mama, he had bad dreams.
This is her youngest daughter and her new baby. Prayers at the family alter – Mama said animist and buddist combo religion.
Very little sleep daybreak came so soon and we packed up and set off for day 2. Day 2.
Finally a group of men in the field!! This is a man job threshing the rice. So labour intensive and back breaking hard super hard work luckily only needs to be done twice a year !!
Beautiful colours of the crops.
How far Mama? we would say – oh not far, see that mountain in the distance…. well just a bit past there!
We would be walking in silence in the middle of nowhere and then suddenly catch the faint sound of someone singing often a child tending goats or in this case a group of boys making beautiful bamboo baskets – we watched them for a while such skill. They work in a team one stripping and cutting the bamboo the others take turns in making – between them they can make 8 baskets a day and sell them for $2 each… yes think about that.
Finally we got to the village and to our second homestay. We were greeted by these ladies – we had arrived on a particularly special night as two villages were having a joint party.Everyone was dressed up in traditional clothes fun was to be had by all. We just wanted to wash and sleep. We were lucky here tho as there was a small wall behind which we could strip and wash with a bucket of rain water – I felt so grateful to feel tingly and clean after such a hot and sweaty walk.
The village was a beautifully traditional one – no electricity, running water, or any kind of modern convenience. I sat at the window of our homestay watching the life below – a gaggle of teen girls with containers on their heads went to the river to collect water at least 4 times in 2 hours. They laughed and giggled together the whole time. Between their comings and goings the local boys raced tires down the street, men dove their ox cart by – children played, women fed the pigs , chickens and kids. And dogs lazed by the road – it was a scene that seemed to be timeless. I felt lost in time gone by, such was the simple nature of being in those last rays of the day – People living as we were supposed too.
Our generous and kind homestay family.
It was hard to get up this morning we have a long to go today we are tired and stiff – and I lost my hoodie on the trail yesterday so I was cold too.
Another misty morning. Bamboo and large pointessa shrubs lined our route, decorated by shimmering spiderwebs dripping in dew. It was a gorgeous sight.
After some steep climbs our route leveled off and we took joy in the magnificent trees – such energy. Nico and Mama Tarzan swinging – boys will be boys hehe.
Tough trek again tired now it was super hot and we are all very tired and wondering, are we nearly there yet!! A selfie to lift our spirits. Beth and I sweaty and ready for a hot/cold shower and sleep in a real bed.
This is the high point where the toll for Inle lake is paid. Down in the valley, we were told, down there in the secret folds of the mountains is where all the opium is illegally grown.
We paid our $25 entrance fee to Inle lake area and joined up with some the other trekkers for the final few kms to the town. And finally the waters of Inle Lake.
We did it … what an adventure and new lifelong friends see you soon Beth and Nico and thanks again I wouldn’t have wanted to do that with anyone but you two.xxx
5 thoughts on “The Hike: Kalaw to Inle Lake.”
So impressed that you were able to do such a challenging trek! Beautiful story telling, I had goosebumps.
What a wonderful account of your adventures – I feel like I was along for the trek!
Oh thank you glad you could come along:)
You are an amazing woman Julia. Thanks for sharing your adventure
we all are amazing 🙂 thank you it was truly a wonderful experience